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Base & Deck Construction

10x12 Gable Shed — Gibson St · August 2026 · Why our foundation numbers differ from the printed plans, every dimension three ways, and the arithmetic behind all of it. Companion to Shed_Build_Guide.html Phase 1–2 and the two Shop Appendices in Annotated_Plans.html.

Why our numbers differ from the plans

The single fact that drives everything on this page

JCS dimensions this building for full-dimension rough-sawn hemlock. We are building it from nominal pressure-treated stock. A 4x6 skid is the place that difference bites hardest, because a beam's bending capacity depends on the square of its depth:

SkidActual size (laid flat)Section modulus S = bd²/6Relative
JCS full-dimension hemlock6" wide × 4" tall6 × 4² / 6 = 16.0 in³100%
Ours — nominal PT5½" wide × 3½" tall5.5 × 3.5² / 6 = 11.2 in³70%

We lost 30% of the skid's bending capacity to a lumber substitution that looks like it changes nothing. The plans' own foundation layout — 11" cantilevers, 61" spans, middle support dead center — was drawn with that 30% still in hand.

What that means in practice. Run JCS's own block layout on our skid and the spans land at 97% of allowable — passing, but with no margin left for anything. Run it on their hemlock and it's 71%. They had room to hand out a round, forgiving, obviously-adequate layout. We don't, so we have to spend our remaining margin deliberately.

The lever we have: cantilever length

Cantilever and span trade one for one — every inch a support moves outward is an inch off the span between supports. Which end of that trade you want depends on which one is running hot:

Hence 18 / 55 / 55 / 16 instead of 11 / 61 / 61 / 11. Same 144" total; supports pulled inward; load shifted toward the end that had capacity to spare.

Why the two cantilevers aren't equal

Two legitimate reasons and no arbitrary ones:

  1. The conduit. The as-built stub's north edge sits 9.19" from the skid's south end, so the south block can't come as far south as the north block can go north. There is no such obstruction at the north end.
  2. The door. The gable walls load the cantilever tips, and they are not the same weight. The south wall has a 62½" × 73" hole in it filled with a plank door — roughly 32 of its 77 sq ft replaced by something about half the weight of shingled, sheathed wall. South gable ≈ 474 lb, north gable ≈ 617 lb. Less tip load earns a longer cantilever at the same stress, so the asymmetry points the right way.
The same pattern, twice. This is the identical situation as the joist spacing. JCS specifies 24" o.c. and it's fine in hemlock; we went to 16" o.c. for exactly this reason. JCS isn't wrong — they're right for their materials. We changed the materials, so we own the recalculation.

Plan view — as-built foundation

Looking down. North up, east right (fence sides). Drawn to scale.

oak root (approx y≈83") — MEASURE conduit anchors station 1 station 2 station 3 110" block outer-to-outer 78" block inner-to-inner 120" deck NORTH — fence · rear gable wall SOUTH — door wall · ramp WEST — windows EAST — fence, windowless 12'×14' pad · dashed = 120×144 deck outline

Note the middle blocks sit on the estimated root line. That is the one unresolved conflict — see Open items.

Edge-to-edge layout chart

Same plan, dimensioned the way you'll actually tape it — outside edge to outside edge in both directions. No center lines: every number is between two things you can hook a tape on. Drawn to scale at the actual block size.

⚠ Check your block size before using any number on this chart. Solid concrete blocks are sized like CMU — the nominal dimension includes a 3⁄8" mortar joint that isn't there, so a “4×8×16” block usually measures 3⅝ × 7⅝ × 15⅝. An as-built section reading of 62¼" (= 15¼ + 47) confirmed it on this build. Measure one block to the sixteenth and use the matching column in the table below. Block centers — and every span, cantilever and stress figure on this page — are identical either way.
23⅜" N wall → block 25⅜" S wall → block 62⅝" section 2→3, outside to outside 62⅝" section 1→2, outside to outside 117⅝" overall, outside to outside 15⅝" across × 7⅝" along 3 2 1 16⅜" 78⅜" inner to inner (secondary) 16⅜" 109⅝" outside to outside — check at all three stations NORTH wall (interior face) SOUTH wall (interior face) WEST wall Both skids identical · dashed green = 120×144 deck outline · gray bars = skids

Targets both ways — use the column that matches your block

DimensionHow you tape itBlock 16 × 8 × 4 (nominal)Block 15⅝ × 7⅝ × 3⅝ (actual — likely)
Section, outside to outside (×2)far edge of one block to far edge of the next63"62⅝"
Overall, outside to outsidefront block’s S edge to back block’s N edge118"117⅝"
Cross-pad, outside to outsideouter edge to outer edge, at each station110"109⅝"
Clear gap between blocks (×2)facing edges47"47⅜"
Cross-pad, inner to innerfacing edges — secondary78"78⅜"
Side wall → block outer edgeapproximate — perimeter isn’t exact16¼"16⅜"
Skid projects past front block’s S edgeafter skids are set14"14316"
Skid projects past back block’s N edgeafter skids are set12"12316"
Skid top above gravel — rim cribbing height7.5"7⅛"
Finished floor above gravel13.72"13.34"
Unchanged either way: block centers 18 / 73 / 128 from the skid’s south end · spans 55" + 55" · cantilevers 18" S / 16" N · skid faces 99½" outer, 88½" inner · every stress figure on this page.
Why outside-to-outside is primary. Inner-to-inner means hooking a tape on an inside corner and reading against a facing edge you can't see past — no more accurate in practice than the outside pull, and fussier. Outside-to-outside lets you hook one edge and read the other cleanly. Keep inner-to-inner as the sanity check that catches a block turned the wrong way: outer − inner should equal twice the block’s across-skid dimension.
The closure check, and it works. The three along-skid pulls are related: overall = 2 × section − block length. If two sections read 62⅝" each and the overall doesn't come out at 117⅝", something moved — and solving the pair of equations tells you which unknown is wrong. That is exactly how the block-size error on this build surfaced: a 62¼" section against an assumed 8" block wouldn't reconcile, and the block turned out to be 7⅝".

Cross-pad dimensions (E–W)

Everything measured across the building. One table, five reference frames.

The measurement rule. x,y from the timber walls is for layout only and is approximate — the perimeter is not exact to the fraction. The arbiters are outside-edge-to-outside-edge AND inside-edge-to-inside-edge, both taped. They differ by exactly twice the member width; if they disagree, the member is not the size you think it is. Centerlines are derived, never measured.
ComponentOuter to outer (tape this)Inner to inner (tape this)Center to center (derived)From EAST wall — center / edges (approx)From EAST deck edge — center / edges
Deck edges (rim outer faces)120"117"11¼" – 131¼"0" – 120"
Skids (5½" wide, flat)99½"88½"94"~24¼" / 21½"–27"13" / 10¼"–15¾"
Blocks (16" across)110"78"94"~24¼" / 16¼"–32¼"13" / 5"–21"
Blocks if ever re-set 8"-across102"86"94"~24¼" / 20¼"–28¼"13" / 9"–17"
Ground anchors (4)84½" center to center84½"29" (both sides)17¾"
Conduit stub (2" PVC, as-built)18¼" center · OD edges 17.06"–19.44"7"

Self-checks that catch a wrong assumption

CheckArithmeticWhat it proves
Skid outer − inner99½ − 88½ = 11" = 2 × 5½the skid really is 5½" wide (i.e. laid flat, not on edge)
Block outer − inner110 − 78 = 32" = 2 × 16every block is turned 16"-across, none rotated
Block outer − skid outer110 − 99½ = 10½" = 2 × 5¼each skid is centered on its block, 5¼" of block proud each side
Conduit to east skid outer face21.5 − 19.44 = 2.06"tightest clearance on the build — verify before setting skids
Independent corroboration. The plans' own pier alternative (p.19) puts its supports 13" in from the deck edge — exactly where our balanced skid centerline lands (10¼" overhang + 2¾" half-width). Two different routes to the same number.

Along-skid dimensions (N–S)

Everything measured along a skid. Both skids identical, so every station gives a cross-pad pair to check.

distributed load w = 26.0 lb/in (floor, bearing walls, roof, live) 237 lb 308 lb S gable N gable 4x6 skid — 144" × 5½" wide × 3½" tall gravel station 1 station 2 station 3 18" 55" 55" 16" 18 + 55 + 55 + 16 = 144" 47" clear 47" clear ⇧ THE ONE-TAPE CHECK: both clear gaps equal = spans balanced S end (door) N end (rear) blocks 16" across the skid × 8" along it · centers shown
FeatureCenter — from skid's S END (the arbiter)Edges — from skid's S endSouth from BACK block's outer edge (relative datum)From SOUTH wall (approx)
Skid's north end144"−12" (i.e. 12" north of datum)155¼"
Station 3 — back block128"124" – 132"0" (datum) – 8"139¼" / 135¼"–143¼"
clear gap47"
Station 2 — middle block73"69" – 77"55" – 63"84¼" / 80¼"–88¼"
clear gap47"
Station 1 — front block18"14" – 22"110" – 118"29¼" / 25¼"–33¼"
Skid's south end0"132"11¼"
Conduit stub — OD north edge9.19"6.81" – 9.19"122.8" – 125.2"18.06" – 20.44"
Ground anchors — S pair / N pair40¾" / 103¾"91¼" / 28¼"52" / 115"
Oak root — estimated, unmeasured~71¾"~60¼"~83"

Spans, cantilevers and clearances

QuantityValueSet by
South cantilever18"conduit clearance floor + lighter (door) gable wall
Span, station 1 → 255"balanced
Span, station 2 → 355"balanced
North cantilever16"heavier (solid) gable wall
Clear gap between blocks (×2)47" each55 − 8 (block length along skid)
Conduit → front block south edge4.81"14 − 9.19
Conduit → east skid outer face2.06"tightest clearance on the build
Anchor → skid inner face~2"29 − 27 · verify all four eyes before setting skids

Cross-section & vertical stack

Looking north. Shows why the rims float and where every height comes from.

gravel pad 2x6 joist — 117" rim rim ¾" floor ply rims float — crib here 120" deck (rim outer faces) 110" block outer-to-outer 78" block inner-to-inner 99½" skid outer-to-outer · 88½" inner-to-inner 10¼" 0" gravel 4" block top 7½" skid top 13" joist top 13.72" floor
The consequence the plans never mention. The skids sit 10¼" inboard of the deck edges, so the rims have nothing under them. Set the end joists first and let them carry the rim corners; then crib only at mid-span, to the skid-top plane at 7½" above the gravel. Full sequence in the Deck-Frame Assembly appendix.
LayerThicknessTop atNote
Gravel pad0"datum for every height on the build
Solid block 4×8×164"4"+ aluminum termite shield, 2" overhang bent down 45°
4x6 skid, laid flat3½"7½"the rim-cribbing target height
2x6 joist5½"13"rim bottoms sit here too
23/32 CDX ply0.72" (23/32 = 0.719)13.72"finished floor — this is the surface you'll see

The math

Every number above, derived. Estimates with stated assumptions — not a stamped calculation.

1 · Allowable bending stress

FactorValueSource
Fb base — #2 SYP, 2–4" thick1000 psiSPIB post-2013 design values
Cfu flat-use factor× 1.054" nominal member used flatwise
CM wet-service factor× 0.85PT skid on gravel, permanently damp
Fb′ allowable892 psi1000 × 1.05 × 0.85
Section modulus S = bd²/611.23 in³5.5 × 3.5² / 6
Mallow = Fb′ × S10,022 in-lb

2 · Load takeoff

The critical distinction: bearing-wall and roof load reaches the skid as a distributed line load (via the rims and joist ends), but gable-wall load lands as a point load at the skid tips — the end joists cross the skids within the first 1½" of their length.

ComponentCalculationLoadPath
Bearing walls (E & W, 144" each)155 sq ft × 8 psf1,240 lbdistributed
Roof500 lbdistributed (bears on bearing walls)
Floor framing + ply120 sq ft × 8 psf960 lbdistributed
Live load120 sq ft × 40 psf4,800 lbdistributed
Distributed total7,500 ÷ 2 skids ÷ 144"w = 26.0 lb/in
North gable wall77.1 sq ft × 8 psf = 617 lb, ÷ 2 skidsPN = 308 lbpoint, at north tip
South gable wall (door opening)(45.4 × 8 + 31.7 × 3.5) = 474 lb, ÷ 2 skidsPS = 237 lbpoint, at south tip
The 40 psf live load is the residential-floor code figure — 4,800 lb spread evenly over the whole floor, which is conservative for a shed. At a realistic 15–20 psf the margins below roughly double.

3 · Moments and stresses

Cantilever: M = P·L + wL²/2 · Interior support of a continuous beam: M ≈ wL²/10 · Stress: f = M / S

Layout (S cant / spans / N cant)S cantileverN cantileverWorst spanGoverning stress% of that skid’s allowable
As first laid out — 22¾ / 62 / 47¼ / 121,080 psi496 psi891 psi1,080 (S cantilever)121% ✗
JCS as printed — 11 / 61 / 61 / 11, on our PT skid373 psi442 psi863 psi863 (span)97% — no margin
JCS as printed, on their hemlock skid261 psi310 psi606 psi606 (span)71% ✓ comfortable (vs ~850 psi — hem-fir #2, dry)
Pure structural optimum — 17 / 56 / 56 / 15694 psi673 psi727 psi727 (span)81% ✓
ADOPTED — 18 / 55 / 55 / 16756 psi736 psi702 psi756 (S cantilever)85% ✓

Allowables differ by species and service condition: 892 psi for our wet-service PT SYP, ~850 psi for JCS's dry hem-fir. Comparing the hemlock row against our PT number would be the wrong comparison — each skid is measured against its own.

The adopted layout sits within 4% of the pure optimum. That 4% was spent buying an extra inch of conduit clearance at the front block — a worthwhile trade for a dimension that has to be worked around with a tamper.

4 · Secondary checks — all pass with room

CheckCalculationResultLimitVerdict
Mid-span deflectionwL⁴/(145·E·I), I = 19.65 in⁴, E = 1.26×10⁶ psi0.066"L/360 = 0.153"✓ 43%
Cantilever tip deflectionPL³/3EI + wL⁴/8EI0.032"✓ negligible
Bearing, skid on block1,429 lb ÷ (5½ × 8 = 44 sq in)32 psiFc⊥ 565 psi✓ 6%
Joist span, 2x6 @ 16" o.c.88½" clear between skids7'-4½"~9'-9" at 40 psf✓ comfortable
Deck diagonal√(120² + 144²)187.44"plans round to 187½"chase equal, not the number

Bearing is why the blocks are turned 16"-across, and it is not the reason you'd guess. At 32 psi against 565 allowable — 6% of capacity — doubling the contact area by turning the blocks buys nothing. What 16"-across actually buys is ±5" of skid placement tolerance instead of ±1¼", and these skids sit on slick termite shields, get nudged during racking, and are positioned by string rather than a jig.

Field checks, in order

#CheckTargetIf it fails
1Block tops all in one laser plane±⅛"re-seat the block — do not shim it later. As-built: accepted at ¼" — see As-built notes
2Cross-pad outer / inner at every station109⅝" / 78⅜"109⅝ − 78⅜ must = 31¼ (twice the block's actual 15⅝" face); if not, a block is turned wrong
3Both clear gaps along each skid47" and 47"unequal gaps = unbalanced spans; slide the middle block
4Root's actual N and S edgesrecord itsee Open items
5All four anchor eyes, off the side walls≥ 27"any eye at 27" or less ends up UNDER the skid
6Skid outer / inner once set99½" / 88½"99½ − 88½ must = 11" (proves the skid is flat, not on edge)
7Conduit to east skid outer face~2"tightest clearance on the build
8Re-verify skid positions immediately before toenailing99½" / 88½"toenailing freezes the geometry permanently
9Deck diagonals before nailing offequal, ~187½"rack until equal — equality beats the printed number

Open items

The oak root is the one unresolved conflict. At its estimated position (~83" from the south wall) it falls inside the middle blocks' footprint, which spans 80¼"–88¼". The estimate has never been verified with a tape.

Measure its actual north and south edges and record them. Clearance rule is 6" from each root edge to the nearest block edge — enough for load spread through the gravel. The old 12" figure was a root-growth allowance; the tree has under ten years left, so growth is not the governing concern.

How much the middle block can slide before it matters depends entirely on floor loading: at 40 psf the window is under an inch; at a realistic 15–20 psf it runs roughly y 75" to y 96". Keep the two clear gaps as near equal as the root allows — every inch of imbalance costs on the longer span.
A fourth block per skid is not needed — that recommendation was an artifact of the root pinning the middle station and forcing a lopsided 62 / 47 split. Balanced spans solve it. And the decision stays reversible in a way nothing else on this build does: the blocks live under an open skirt with a termite-inspection gap, so if the door end ever develops a sag, you jack the skid and slide one in.
Precision disclaimer. The gable-wall weights (474 and 617 lb) are estimates, so "18 and 16" should not be read as exact. The defensible claims are: both cantilevers want to be in the mid-to-high teens rather than at 11–12"; the south can be the longer of the two; and the spans want to be equal. Design allowables carry a safety factor of roughly 2–2.5 against actual rupture, so nothing here is near failing — the realistic symptom of getting it wrong is slow sag at the door end, which is exactly where you would notice it.

Phase 2 cut list — as approved Aug 5, 2026

Historical record, migrated Aug 14, 2026 from the retired Order_Plan_and_Build_Sequence. The deck is built; this is kept because it documents what was cut and why.

#PieceQtyCut lengthFrom
1Skid2144" (±¼")4x6x12' PT
2Rim joist2144" exact2x6x12' PT
3Floor joist10117" (120 − actual combined rim thickness)2x6x10' PT
4Blocking — end bays4~13¾"2x6x10 offcuts
5Blocking — middle bays14~14½"2x6x10 offcuts
6Floor ply — full sheets248" × 96" uncutPT 23/32 CDX
7Floor ply — squares248" × 48"PT 23/32 CDX
8Floor ply — long strip124" × 96"PT 23/32 CDX
9Floor ply — short strip124" × 48"PT 23/32 CDX
Batch vs fit — the principle worth keeping. Joists are batch-cut: they must be identical or the deck won't hold square. Blocking is fitted one bay at a time: the bays are never all the same, and a block cut to a nominal number either gaps or forces the joists off 16" o.c.

Ply layout: three columns across the 120" — 48" / 48" / 24" — with the N–S seams staggered (96+48 in one column, 48+96 in the next). The full 48×96 sheet goes at the SE corner so the conduit hole is measured off that sheet's own factory corner.

As-built & field notes — Phase 2, August 2026

Everything above is the design. This is what the deck actually taught us while it was going together on Aug 12–13, 2026 — corrections to numbers printed above, techniques that worked, and two things in this document that were simply wrong.

Two live corrections to numbers printed earlier on this page.
① The cross-pad check was 110" / 78". Those two differ by 32", which means they were computed on a nominal 16" block. The blocks are CMU-modular — actual 15⅝". Correct values on the plans' 94" centers are 109⅝" / 78⅜", differing by 31¼". Laying to 110" put the block centers 94⅜" apart, ⅜" too wide, and that propagated straight into skids reading 100" and 100½" outside-to-outside against a 99½" target.
Level before you square, not after. The sequence printed above has leveling late. Jacking a skid to shim it lifts one corner and racks the frame, which throws diagonals you have already chased. Ask for level first and the square survives.

Scope note. This document covers base and deck only. Wall framing, roof framing and finishes get their own parallel documents rather than being appended here — the point of the library is that each phase is findable on its own.

Measure from the frame, not across open air

Skid-to-skid across open ground is the measurement that fought us all day: nothing to hook a tape on, nothing square to reference, and every reading disagreeing with the last. Once the deck frame is square, it is the reference. Measure down to the skids from it.

The deck is 120" wide and the skids sit at 99½" outside-to-outside, so:

FromToTargetWhy this one
Rim outside faceSkid outside face10¼"(120 − 99½) ÷ 2
Rim inside faceSkid outside face8¾"easiest in practice — you're closer to the skid
Rim inside faceSkid inside face14¼"alternate sight line

The full chain across the deck must sum to 117":

8¾ + 5½ + 88½ + 5½ + 8¾ = 117"

Four corners at 8¾" and you are done. That single measurement, taken at all four corners, fixes skid spacing, parallelism and centering simultaneously — there is no way for all four to read correctly and the skids to be wrong. It replaces three separate checks that each needed a helper.

The bottom edge of the rim sits level with the top of the skid, because the joists bear on the skids. So the tape runs horizontally with nothing to plumb down and no square needed.

Verify the skid widths first — both skids, both ends. If one is 5⅝" instead of 5½", every derived number on this page shifts and you will chase it for an hour. Two minutes to check.

Re-check the conduit any time the skids move. ~2" to the east skid face is the tightest clearance anywhere on this build, and the floor hole gets drilled directly over that stub.

⅛" of skid off-center over 144" is a rotation of 0.05°. Acceptable. Stop chasing it — the blocks were deliberately accepted at ¼", and this is tighter than that.

Revised build sequence — supersedes the order printed above

#StepWhy here and not elsewhere
1Re-crown every joistWeek-old crown marks go stale — boards move on gravel
2Install joists, 2 nails per end onlyA fully nailed frame cannot rack. Leave the other two out
3Re-verify skid position & block centeringLast easy chance
4LEVEL — jack and shim at the blocksBefore squaring. Jacking racks the frame
5SQUARE — chase diagonals equal, ~187.44"Equality beats the printed 187½"
6LOCK — board screwed across the diagonalImmediately. It undoes itself while you fetch the drill
7Then bring the skids to 8¾"Square the frame first and move the skids to it — the frame's square is the hard-won part; skids are loose and light
8Nail off — 3rd and 4th nails per end
9Toenail to skidsThis freezes the geometry permanently
10Blocking
11Protectant on every cut endLast chance to reach these faces — after the ply, most of it is sealed away forever
12Plywood; brace comes off as sheets go downThe ply is what squares the deck permanently

Racking a frame that's out of square

Diagonals of 188" and 187" are 1" out. The correction is ½", not 1" — moving one corner lengthens one diagonal and shortens the other simultaneously.

The average is a free diagnostic. 188 and 187 average 187½, which is the true 187.44 — so the frame's own dimensions are right and it is purely racked. If the average were wrong, something would be mis-cut and racking wouldn't fix it.
DoInstead of
Work from a corner of the long diagonal, driving inward toward its opposite cornerPushing outward from the short corner — you'd have to stand inside the frame with no swing
Ratchet strap across the long diagonal, cranked slowlyA sledge, if you're solo. The strap is reversible and you can watch both corners
Small bites, re-measuring both diagonals after eachOne big pull — a racked frame breaks static friction suddenly and you will overshoot
Tack a nail at each outside corner to hook the tape onHolding a tape on a corner solo, which is impossible
Racking slides the frame on the skids. Every skid measurement taken before you racked is void. Re-do the four 8¾" corners afterwards — which is exactly why step 7 comes after step 6 and not before.

Toenailing joists to skids — the gun mostly lost

As-built: hand-driven. The framing nailer underperformed badly at this and the hammer was better. It is 40 nails; hand-driving them is about twenty minutes and gives certainty at the step that freezes the geometry.

Root causes, in the order they mattered:

CauseFix
Entry point at the corner. Started where the joist face meets the skid top, the nail clips through the joist's bottom edge — where there is almost no wood — then bottoms its head against the corner before the shank is buriedStart 1¼"–1½" up the joist face, measured from the skid's top surface, angled down 45–50°. The nail then travels through solid joist wood, crosses the interface and buries in the skid
Wet PT southern yellow pine. Ring shank + dense wet SYP + 45° is at the edge of what a framing nailer does well — these guns are built to fire perpendicular into a flat faceRegulator to 105–110 PSI (90–95 is a face-nailing number), depth-of-drive to max
The joist bouncesWeight on it, directly over the skid. Any movement eats the energy that should be driving the nail
Bump fireSequential trigger. You are aiming these
A proud head here is cosmetically irrelevant — it sits 5½" below the plywood and nothing bears on it. Set proud nails because a standing head means the shank isn't fully buried, not because the head shows.

Verify each nail actually passes through joist wood. One driven alongside the joist into the skid holds nothing at all.

Order of operations

  1. Four corners first — both end joists × both skids. This pins the frame's outline, and from that moment no single nail can move the assembly.
  2. Then center-out, halving the gaps: joists 5 and 6, then 3 and 8, then fill in 2, 4, 7, 9. Marching sequentially from one end lets each small push accumulate, and the tenth joist ends up visibly off.
  3. Both skids on a joist before moving on. A joist nailed at one end only can pivot.
  4. One nail from each side, opposing. Two from the same side walk the joist off its mark. Alternate which side you start on so any stance bias cancels across the deck.

2 per crossing · 20 crossings · 40 nails total. Measure the diagonals once after the four corners are in; if they still match, the geometry is frozen and the remaining 32 can go in without stopping.

Blocking — the two-pass method

The blocking rows back the plywood's long seams, so they cannot be staggered — every block in a row lands on the same line. Which means you cannot end-nail both sides of a joist at the same station: the block you just installed is in the way. Solve it with sequence instead.

PassBaysMethodWhy it works
1Odd — 1, 3, 5, 7, 9End-nail, 3 nails through the joist face into end grain, each endBoth neighboring bays are still empty, so both joist faces are open. End joists get theirs from outside the deck
2Even — 2, 4, 6, 8Toenail, 3 per end — 2 on one face, 1 on the otherBoth neighbors are now filled. Place the single nail vertically between the other two so the shanks pass rather than collide

5 end-nailed and 4 toenailed per row · 3 per end either way · ~108 nails for both rows. On a 5½" block: roughly 1½" and 4" up on the first face, ~2¾" on the second. Add a fourth if a block still feels lively.

Toenails go into the big vertical faces (5½" × 14½"), never the top edge. The top edge is only 1½" wide and is the surface the plywood bears on. Toenails do not need to be flush.
DetailWhy
Cut pass-2 blocks ~1/16" scantA tight block driven into an already-locked row doesn't compress — it pushes your joists off 16" o.c., and you find out when the ply seams don't land
Set the block 1/16" proud on the side you nail first, or brace the far endToenailing kicks the block. Let the drive seat it onto the line instead of past it
Flush at the top beats being on the lineA block ⅛" proud telegraphs through the plywood forever; ⅛" low leaves the seam bearing on nothing. Position by feel, fingers spanning block and joist

Marking — one chalk line per row

  1. Mark 23¼" on the north and south end joists, measured from the outside face of the east rim. The line marks the block's east face. (As-built Aug 2026: ply columns run 24 / 48 / 48 from the east, so the ripped 24" strip column lands on the east and the conduit hole falls in the SE strip piece — a 24"-wide piece drops over a stub-up far more easily than a full 48×96 sheet. The layout is rotationally symmetric across the diagonal, so either side works; the east was chosen in the field. Measure from the east rim only — two reference edges is how these get transposed.)
  2. Snap. The line crosses all ten joist tops in one shot, and is straight by definition.
  3. Put an X on the west side of the line on every joist — the block always sits west of its line. Without it you will set half the row on the wrong side and lose the seam bearing.
  4. Repeat at 71¼" for the second row. Blocks occupy 23¼–24¾" and 71¼–72¾", centering the seams at 24" and 72".
Free diagnostic: if the snapped line reads 23¼" at the ends but 23½" in the middle, you have just found a joist that drifted — fix it before the block locks it there.

Joist-to-rim gaps — leave them

Gaps of 1/32"–1/16" turned up at several joist ends, a couple of them consistent full depth.

Rim straightness beats gap tightness. That rim is the outside face of the building — the wall plate sits on it, the sheathing plane references it, the shingle courses follow it. A dead-straight rim with a 1/16" void behind it at three joists is better than a rim pulled tight everywhere and thereby made wavy.
What you're seeingDo
Consistent gap, full depthLeave it. Closing it dimples the wall line to fix an invisible void
Gap at one point, flush elsewhereLeave it — that's ~1/32" out-of-square on a saw cut, which is normal
Rim bowed away between joistsClose this one — here tightening improves straightness rather than harming it
Anything over ~⅛"Different conversation — shim it, or the joist is mis-cut
No lag screws. A lag through the rim threads into the joist's end grain, where the NDS does not permit designing for withdrawal at all. It snugs the gap on installation day and is thereafter a fastener you are counting on that isn't really there. Nails in shear are correct here; 4 per end is the spec.

The right method: clamp it, or run a temporary screw to draw it in, drive the nails, then back the screw out. Screw as clamp, nails as fastener.

The check: pull a string along the outside face of each rim, end to end. Fix only where it wanders more than ⅛" off the string, and only toward the string. Everywhere else, nail and move on.

Seal the end grain before the plywood goes down. Joist end grain against a rim is the most rot-prone spot on this deck and a 1/16" gap is a capillary trap. Copper naphthenate into those joints now — every one of them is unreachable afterwards.

Shims — as-built

Product: composite horseshoe shims, 1⅞" × 5⅛", ~$1.48 per 16-pack. Bought 5 packs / 80 shims for about $6.45. Parallel-sided, not tapered — no wedge tip concentrating load.

Shims go ON TOP of the termite shield. This reverses the initial guidance, and the reasons are better:
• The shield stays flat and fully supported on the block. Shimming underneath creases thin metal and opens gaps at the shield's own perimeter — the exact failure it exists to prevent.
• It eliminates metal-to-PT contact entirely, which matters if the shields are aluminum.
Composite is not food. A wood shim above the shield would be a real problem; a plastic one is inert.
• The barrier mechanism is the continuous plane plus the 2" downturned lip at 45°. Nothing stacked above it changes that.
• It stays adjustable — you will be adding and pulling shims while chasing level.
RuleReason
Butt them tight to each otherContiguous bearing, no concealed void under the skid
Interlock the horseshoe slotsThe slot is a void in your bearing area — alternate them so slots overlap solid material
Keep everything inboard of the downturnA shim spanning the lip is a bridge across your barrier
Leave the 2" skirt clean and visibleIt's the inspection surface — twice a year you look along it for mud tubes
Cap the stack at ~½"Beyond that, pull the block and re-set it. A tall stack of loose shims walks out under freeze-thaw

The load math

Contact patch is the skid's 5½" width × the block's 7⅝" along-skid dimension = 41.9 sq in. Three shims side by side — 5⅛" across the skid width, 1⅞" each along it — give ~29 sq in, about 70% coverage.

~1,400 lb ÷ 29 sq in ≈ 49 psi, against PT SYP's 565 psi allowable compression perpendicular to grain — 9% utilised.

The skid is the weak link, not the shim. Nothing here is close to troubled.

Every block must bear. A skid touching five blocks and hovering 1/16" over the sixth does not stay a gap — sustained load creeps at roughly twice the instantaneous elastic deflection, so the wood sags into the void over years. Check each station with a slip of paper: if it slides out freely, shim it. This is the entire reason shimming exists.
Why not PT offcuts? The usual objections are half right. Rot isn't the issue — it's the same ground-contact PT, sealed at the cut. Compression isn't either — loaded perpendicular to grain it's the same 565 psi as the skid above it, at 9% utilisation. The real reasons are that accurate 1/16" slices off a 4x6 are hard to cut and split, and wood shims swell and shrink in step with the skid, so the gap you closed reopens seasonally. The composite costs six dollars.

Never use cedar or pine carpenter's shims — the reflexive answer and wrong here. Softwood crushes under sustained load and the tip wicks water. Crushing reintroduces exactly the settlement you're shimming out. No aluminum flashing either — it corrodes against copper-azole PT.

Bowed joists become blocking

Boards left on gravel a few days develop bow — the gravel side stays damp, the sun dries the top, and the board bends toward the dry face.

Curvature scales with the square of length. A board with ½" of bow over 117", cut into 14½" pieces, leaves each piece with ½ × (14½ ÷ 117)² ≈ 0.008" of deviation. A visibly banana-shaped joist yields blocks that are dead straight. Nothing is wasted.
BucketWhat it isVerdict
CrownBend in the tall 5½" plane, sighting down the edgeNot a defect. Crown up, install it. Every board has some
BowBend in the thin 1½" plane, face waving side to sideUp to ¼" over 117" — install it. The rims capture both ends and two rows of blocking capture the middle, and that assembly pulls it straight. ¼"–½", use it in a middle bay flanked by straight neighbors. Past ½", make it blocking
Twist / windCorners not in the same planeDisqualifying at any magnitude. Blocking and plywood fight it forever and it telegraphs through the floor

Yield

117 ÷ 14⅝" (14½" plus kerf) = exactly 8.0 — too tight to bank on once you trim a bad end. Budget 7 usable blocks per board. Against 18 blocks / 258 linear inches needed:

SourceBlocksVerdict
3 curved joists @ 721Works — 3 spare
2 curved joists @ 714Short by four
The swap costs nothing. The estimate's 14× 2x6x10 line reads "joists @ 16" o.c. + blocking" — the extras were always blocking stock, so trading bad joists out for good backstock is a straight trade with no net loss.

Moisture bow often relaxes. A board wetted on one face and dried on the other can come back as it equalises. Don't write them off permanently.

Re-crown everything before installing. Marks a week old may now be wrong, and a joist installed crown-down because of a stale mark is a problem you don't discover until the plywood is on.